1969 Zenith El Primero Ref. A386 MK2 unpolished

Founded in 1865 in Le Locle by Georges Favre-Jacot, Zenith quickly earned a reputation as the manufacturer of some of the most precise timepieces of those years achieving the first prize in the chronometry competition of the observatory of Neuchâtel in 1903. Over the years, Zenith won many more competitions achieving the impressive record of more than 2,300 prizes considering pocket watches, on board instruments and wristwatches.

 

In 1962, Zenith began developing the idea of creating the first automatic chronograph in watchmaking history with the ambition to launch it in 1965, on occasion of the centenary of the Manufactury.

 

Instead of considering the easier option to add a chronograph module to a base movement, Zenith had a more ambitious plan: the chronograph function had to be fully integrated within the mechanism and actuated by a column wheel rather than by an easier-to-implement cam. And to make things even more challenging, the beating frequency of the chronograph had to be high enough to make it the most accurate chronograph wristwatch in the world measuring 1/10th of a second. A relatively small size and a date indication were additional specifications.

 

With all these requirements, the bar was raised so high that the project could not be completed in time for the centenary in 1965 but it required four more years.

 

In 1969, at a press conference held on January the 10th, Zenith announced the imminent launch of the first fully integrated, high-frequency, automatic chronograph movement. Codenamed 3019 PHC, this movement was renamed “El Primero”, which means “the first” in Spanish.

 

Despite the announcement, the Zenith El Primero debuted later in the year, in September, thus making it possible for other competitors to start selling their automatic movements a few months in advance.

 

In fact, Seiko and the Chronomatic Group (a partnership between Heuer-Léonidas, Breitling, Hamilton-Büren and Dubois-Dépraz) were also running the race to the first automatic chronograph movement. Seiko had quietly introduced their own 6139 automatic chronograph movement to the Japanese market only in May while the Chronomatic Group released its first example in August.

This particular example, with serial 706D753 is a MK2, the most sought-after after the MK1. In fact, it preserves many of the features of the MK1, like the star logo crown, the plain case back with no logo and the dial, that were changed from the MK3 and on.

 

This is a pure, untouched, original owner El Primero that we had the luck to find in the wild. Featuring a superb dial aged to a creamy tone, the patina is matching on hour markers and hands. Even the crystal is the original one.

 

These A386 are so sought-after, apart from its evident history, because of the lines of the case, showing knife-sharp edges. This example here remains in unpolished condition, being one of the most important features about these because you can appreciate the bevels the same way they came out of the factory. The caseback also remains unpolished, letting clearly visible the serial number.

 

The watch has been fully serviced by our professional watchmaker and it is running like the first day.

 

Furthermore, it comes suited on the original Zenith Gay Freres ladder bracelet with ZJ endlinks and date stamped 2/70.