1989 Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18049 Black Factory Diamond dial and Bezel in 18K WG

Among the more elusive corners of the Rolex Day-Date lineage, the reference 18049 stands apart—not for grand reinvention, but for its restrained take on luxury. Produced in the early 1980s, this rare reference belongs to the five-digit Day-Date era, yet feels almost like a hidden chapter—less documented, less seen, and all the more intriguing.

Crafted in 18k white gold, the 18049 was never intended to be loud. It was built for a different kind of presence—understated, immaculate, and quietly opulent. The reference number itself signals one of its most distinctive traits: factory diamond-set dials, many of which came paired with brilliant-cut diamond bezels. Yet even within its sparkle, the 18049 doesn’t shout. It glows.

What truly sets it apart, though, is the variety in execution. Some were delivered with bark-textured bezels and bracelet center links, a deeply 1980s flourish now enjoying a quiet resurgence. Others were more traditional, with polished finishes that let the metal speak on its own terms. The dial variations spanned the spectrum—champagne, silver, bronze, blue, all typically accented with diamond hour markers. But among them, black dials remain especially rare. Against white gold and a diamond bezel, a black dial introduces an unexpected sharpness, a sense of modernity that feels both elegant and quietly bold.

Inside beats the Rolex Caliber 3055, offering quickset functionality for the date and the iconic dual-window display at 12 and 3 o’clock. Like all Day-Dates, the 18049 is built with Rolex's hallmark robustness—but its spirit is different. It’s less about power, more about presence.

Produced in far fewer numbers than its yellow gold siblings like the 18038, the 18049 represents a more exclusive, more refined expression of the Day-Date ethos. For collectors who favor rarity over visibility, and elegance over excess, this reference delivers a compelling and beautifully balanced proposition.

It’s luxury in a lower register—and that, often, is the most enduring kind.

This example offered here is a Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18049 from 1989 in 18K white gold.

The black glossy dial is in great condition with no visible wear. It features factory diamond-set hour markers and intact tritium lume plots that have aged to a light creamy patina. The original hands show a matching tritium hue.

The 18K white gold case is presented in strong, even condition, preserving thick lugs, and sharp bevels, remaining most probably unpolished. It shows normal signs of wear. The bezel features factory set brilliant-cut diamonds. It is well-preserved too. The case back is found in the same condition, being correctly engraved on the inner side. All gold hallmarks remain clearly visible.

The watch is running great and keeping time, as it was serviced in July 2024.

The sapphire crystal is clean.

It comes suited on its original Rolex 8385 ‘President’ 18K white gold bracelet with 55 end links and deployant clasp that shows a stunning yellow-ish patina, normal wear for its age and little stretch.

Macros of case and dial are available under request, as well as movement, inner case back and service pictures.