1973 Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680/8 ‘18K Gold’

The Rolex Submariner was among the very first dive watches on the market and it quickly became the most iconic. The Sub represents a sort of inflection point for Rolex as a company and how it would go on to become what it is today. Prior to the 1950s, Rolex was making mostly watches that today we'd describe as dress watches or all-purpose watches of one kind or another. Bubblebacks, two-register chronographs, and Datejusts were the brand's core offerings. Yes, these included important innovations like the waterproof Oyster case and the so-called "perpetual" automatic movements, but they weren't proper sport watches as we'd recognize them today. 

 

It might seem hard to believe today, but it took 16 years before the very first Submariner rolled out of Rolex with a date complication at three o'clock back in 1969 with the introduction of the reference 1680 'Red Letter'. It's worth noting that the earliest Sea-Dwellers, which featured a date from the beginning, came out two years earlier too. It did however use the same caliber as those early Sea-Dwellers, the caliber 1575.

“Sporty Elegance”, would be one phrase to describe the 1680/8, or the plastic gold sub.  With most of the nice steel watches have already been picked up by collectors, gold watches are making a strong impression on collectors and like their steel counterparts; original early pieces are becoming more attractive.

 

The example offered here for sale here is in outstanding condition. The black matte ‘nipple dial’ is in excellent condition with no marks and a very beautiful matching patina lume. The original hands have also a wonderful patina.

 

The super fat font ‘kissing 40’ bezel is also in superb condition and is a very rare variation that would perfectly reach the 5k mark on its own.

 

Original triplelock crown with no O-ring as the early examples should be.

 

The 18K solid gold case remains very fat with signs of a light polishing at some time in its lifetime. The case back is engraved with the initials of the original owner.

 

The bracelet is correct for these year period examples with no number markings and with no date stamped (from 1973 an on Rolex stopped marking these and are only seen on 1972 examples). It has the early clasp with the Rolex crown raised at the end of the clasp with the fliplock. Later examples came with the more commonly seen impressed crown on the center of the clasp. The divers extension is also included and correctly marked PAT. PEND as it’s an early bracelet (later came marked PATETED).

 

The Rolex cal. 1570 is running good and keeping time although service history is unknown.