1959 Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 6542 with service tritium 'Gilt' dial

The Rolex GMT-Master reference 6542, introduced in 1954, marked Rolex’s bold entry into the world of multi-timezone watches. Developed with Pan Am Airways to aid pilots navigating the early Jet Age, it introduced a fourth hand and a rotating 24-hour bezel—technical breakthroughs that defined the GMT-Master line for decades. Housed in a 38mm case and powered by early automatic calibers like the 1036 and 1066, the 6542 blended tool watch functionality with the cosmopolitan utility that made Rolex a favorite of both aviators and executives.

 

But what truly set the 6542 apart was its visual flair. The early models featured radium-lumed gilt dials, chapter rings, and the now-iconic bakelite bezel insert—a luminous, colorful component as beautiful as it was fragile. These early bezels were prone to cracking, and the radioactive materials used in the dials soon came under scrutiny, prompting Rolex to replace or service many of these watches in the late 1950s and ’60s. As a result, surviving examples with period-correct service parts tell a parallel story of Rolex's evolving safety standards and engineering foresight.

 

Among the most desirable service updates is the gilt tritium dial—a rare configuration that retains the warmth and charm of the original aesthetic while reflecting Rolex’s response to new safety norms. Rather than detracting from its collectibility, such Rolex-executed updates enhance the historical narrative of a watch that truly lived its purpose. For collectors, a 6542 with honest service provenance isn’t just a compromise—it’s a time capsule of Rolex’s commitment to durability, design, and evolution.

The watch offered for sale here is a Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 6542 with early gilt tritium service dial.

 

The early gilt tritium service dial remains in outstanding condition, with very little wear if any to the lacquer, which remains mirror glossy, and puffy lume plots which are preserved intact and very clean, featuring a stunning yellow patina. The original gilt hands are still there.

 

The case on this particular example speaks volumes on its own. It remains original, and most likely unpolished, with thick lugs, sharply defined bevels, and no signs of refinishing—only the honest wear of a watch that has been worn with intention, not neglect. The case geometry is crisp and intact, a rarity among 6542s, and a testament to just how well this piece has been preserved across seven decades. The case back is correctly engraved on the inner face. The red-back ‘Pepsi’ is a later service, contemporary to the dial, that remains beautiful with a lovely fade to the blue portion.

 

The acrylic crystal has some light scratches that could be easily buffed away.

 

It is suited on an unworn handmade leather strap with stainless steel buckle and quick-release spring bars.

 

It is running well and keeps time within vintage specs. Service history is unknown although watchmaker’s markings are present on the inner case back.

 

Macros of dial and case are available under request.