Unpolished Universal Genève Polerouter Date ‘Caramel Dial’

Now, everyone knows the story of this watch but here’s a reminder, just in case: To shortcut the flights from Europe to California (USA) by some thousand kilometers, the airline SAS (Scandinavian Airline System) opened new routes over the North Pole in the 1950s. All crews on these flights had to take part in a special training at the "SAS's Arctic Flight School". The Swiss watch manufacturer Universal Genève provided the crews with automatic precision wrist-watches that are resistant against the strong magnetic field of the polar region. They became the official chronometers of SAS. This design was commended to 23 year old Gerald Genta who also was the same designer of the legendary Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus. Soon this Polerouters, specially the Date versions, became a sought after for collectors all around the world.

This particular mid-1960s example has a beautiful tropical caramel dial evenly spread throughout the surface that makes it so special. The way this dial has aged is unique and impossible to imitate. Along with the mesmerizing caramel dial, the printing has turned to a gilt color matching perfectly with the golden lume present both on hands and hour plots, again matching in tone.

 

The 36mm (excluding the original UG signed crown) all stainless steel case is part of Watch History as young 23 year old Gerald Genta (same designer of the Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus) designed it especially for SAS and remains sharp and unpolished. The famous twisted or bombe lugs are UG’s sign of character adding so much value to the piece. This case remains in untouched and unpolished condition showing sharp bevels.

 

The case back also remains unpolished, letting visible both reference and serial numbers (something pretty hard to see nowadays on these), as well as the UG Polerouter logo.

It also has the very rare original acrylic crystal with trapezoidal date magnifier and UG logo engraved in the center. The trapezoidal date magnifier adopts the shape of the date window for a better visibility of the open 6 and 9 numerals. The crystal has some minor marks. Beware that any sports or lines seen on the pictures are on the crystal and not on the dial. A soft crystal polishing will be beneficial but we prefer to leave that to the buyers’ decision.

 

The in-house Microtor cal. 69 is running good and keeping time, although service history is unknown.

 

It is suited up with a vintage style unworn handmade leather strap.

 

This is the perfect daily beater because of its elegant yet sporty looks that can be combined with a suit or with jeans. Furthermore, the caramel dial, the rare original crystal and the details of the serial and model numbers on the case back still visible are added values that make this Polerouter stand out from the rest.