1987 Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16550 Lemon Cream ‘Rail’ dial

Few Rolex references embody the magic of serendipitous imperfection quite like the Explorer II 16550. Produced for a brief three-year window between 1985 and 1988, this transitional reference bridges the gap between the vintage 1655 “Freccione” and the more ubiquitous 16570. But what truly sets it apart is not just its technical advancements—it’s the dials.

 

The 16550 marked a turning point for the Explorer II. Case size grew from 38mm to a more modern 40mm, acrylic crystal gave way to scratch-resistant sapphire, and, most notably, the caliber 3085 introduced an independently adjustable 24-hour hand. This was the Explorer II’s first real step toward contemporary utility. But the most compelling upgrade came in the form of its dial—Rolex introduced glossy black and white variants with 18k white gold surrounds on the hour markers. Yet, in an unintentional twist of fate, early white dials were formulated with a faulty paint mix that aged into a rich, creamy hue over time.

 

These so-called "cream dials" are most commonly found on early “rail-dial” variants—named for the nearly perfect vertical alignment of the ‘C’s in Chronometer and Certified. Paired with the “SWISS T - <25” designation at six o’clock, these dials have become some of the most prized among collectors. While the creamy transformation occasionally occurs on later “non-rail” dials as well, the earliest executions remain the most desirable, embodying an organic aging process that Rolex quickly corrected in subsequent runs.

The example on offer here is a particularly exceptional one—a 1988 Rolex Explorer II 16550 with a lemon-cream ‘Rail’ dial that has developed into something truly spectacular. 

 

Not all 16550s age equally—some dials shift into deep, almost buttermilk cream, while others retain a subtler transformation. This example falls into the latter camp, with a more delicate, refined patina. The once-stark white surface has mellowed into a soft, even hue with golden undertones, gentle, almost translucent cream with hints of lemon, offering a restrained yet unmistakable warmth. Complemented by lume plots that have settled into a slightly deeper sandy tone and a handset that follows suit, aging just a shade lighter than the indices having, adding depth and dimension. The result is a beautifully balanced interplay of tones—never too stark, never overly aged, but a perfect harmony that keeps the eye engaged without ever feeling heavy-handed.

 

Its case remains thick and well-defined, with crisp, prominent bevels and only the lightest signs of wear. The original fat, square-font bezel is equally impressive, retaining its sharp sunburst finish. 

 

Completing the package is its original Rolex Oyster 78360 bracelet with 501B end links and I9 clasp code—showing minimal stretch and only gentle signs of use.

 

The watch is running well and keeping time, although service history is unknown.

 

The original sapphire crystal is clean.

 

The 16550 may have been a transitional reference, but pieces like this prove that it was anything but an afterthought. This is a collector’s dream—an Explorer II with a dial that has transformed into something utterly unique, without compromising a millimeter of its tool-watch DNA.

 

Macros of dial and case are available under request.